40 Time 4 Me, May 2009
travel
Up hill and
downdale
ON Acultural tour of Yorkshire, ROGER ST PIERRE
follows the trail of some literary greats
HEY say it’s an ill wind that
blows nobody any good and travelpointT
the current credit crunch
seems to be delivering along ● The Old White Lion,
overdueboost to domestic tourism. www.oldwhitelionhotel.com
Once grossly overpriced, Tel 01535 642313
holidays at home now offer some ● Free entry to more than 30
real bargains andavert theneed attractions and discounts on
to suffer airportdelays,poor restaurants, entertainment
exchange ratesand theother and carhire are available with
concerns that currentlyblight the useful one,two or three-
foreigntravel. day York Pass, tel: 01904
Thanks to motorways, thetime 550099, www.yorkpass.com.
spent reaching Yorkshire after ● Rail travel information is BRONTE TOWN: Haworth
joining the M1 or A1 these days is available on 0845 000 0125, in North Yorkshire
not muchmorethanitoften takes www.northernrail.org. For
from SouthLondontojointhe The Old White Lion in the buildings, including awell-tourist information, visit
motorway at Brent Cross –and centre of the villagewas ideal for stockedlibraryand an impressivewww.visityork.org and
you can make the journey even arestful overnight stay after a church.But allwas notwww.yorkshire.com
quicker by taking the train from traditional, locallysourceddinner beneficence in Salt’s era, as a
King’s Cross to Leeds or York. There’s an equally stunning at the excellent Weavers reading of his contracts of
There’s amore than substantial view from theYorkshire Wheel, set Restaurant just up the street. employment reveals. One clause
taster for everything that’s best beside the railway museum and Myfinal morning took me to the firmly states:“Anypersonleaving
about Yorkshire to be found in the rivalling the London Eye in size. World Heritage Site theirworkand found
cityofYork, whose Roman, Ashort drive out of town there’s of Saltaire, a talkingwithany‘Likesomething
Viking, Norman and Victorian the glorious Castle Howard, the Victorian industrial otherworkpeople
heritage oozesfromthe very stately home that featured in the village purpose-built shallbefined 2d forout of aHovis
stones of itsencirclingwalls. TV series andfilm of Brideshead by the tycoon Sir each offence. Any
Given York’s longstanding advert, theRevisited. Titus Salt in 1853. person in need of
importance as arail centre, it’s not Ithenpicked up the Bronte Now housing arange thenecessary shallvillage clings to
surprising to find it is home to the sisterstheme,heading firstfor of interestingshops askpermissionof
superb National Railway Museum, Birstall,whose OakwellCountry the hillside’and galleries, theoverseerby
with its vast collection of intriguing Park is centred on abeautiful including raisingofahand.”
hands-on interactive exhibits. Elizabethanmanor houseon an outstanding display of My few days in Yorkshire had
Other must-sees in town include which Charlotte Brontebased David Hockney originals, the vast taken me across the centuries
York Castle Museum, the Jorvik Fieldhead in her novel Shirley. mill here was once the world’s andgiven aninsight into the
Viking Centre and the monumental At Mytholmroyd stands the largest building. amazing depth of the county’s
York Minster, the largest Gothic modest housethatwas the Houses in thevillage arenow culture. Ineeded no further
cathedral in northern Europe and a birthplace of former poet laureate highly sought afterand there’sa incentivetoimmediately set
treasure trove of stained glass. Ted Hughes. Hughes’s first wife, range of magnificent public aboutplanninganother visit.
Climb the 275 steps to the top of the American poet Sylvia Plath, is
the minster’s tower and you will buried in nearby Heptonstall
discover the most spectacular where, unusually, two churches crosswordsolution
view of the city. share the graveyard.
It was but ashort drive
from there to the tourist-
thronged villageofHaworth,
where the Brontes lived with
their father, the vicar.
Like something out of a
Hovis advert, the village
clings to the hillside, with
stone cottages and tiny
shops lining the steep high
street,the wholeplace
bathing in aceaseless wave
of nostalgia, the very
epitome of atourist trap but
not to be missed Hidden
nonetheless. celebrity:
It takes an hour and a
half to walk from there to Keira
Top Withens, immortalised KnightleyHISTORIC: York
in Emily’s Wuthering
Heights.
TIME 4 ME 040 May 2009
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