BIGWAVE SURFING
What motivates you well as mental and physical training.We
to ride waves like carry two survival packs on the ski in
that? case we become stranded on an island
My friend died when I was 18 and I for a night.I wear two impact vests and a
decided then that I was going to live my helmet.We carry radios and flares too.
life to the full to make up for his loss. It is easy for anyone to be towed into
Also my Dad died very suddenly when a 60-foot wave by a competent tow surfer
I was 22 and the last thing we talked as long as they have the balls and skill
about was the fact that I wanted to go to stay on.It’s knowing how to manage
to Mavericks in California. I’ve learned the wipeouts that causes problems.The
that life is short and if we don’t live it to real difference between the men and
the full now, before we know it, it’s gone. the boys is that the good ones have had
That also relates to those around us their beatings, taken falls and wipeouts
and because of this I appreciate every in paddle surfing and tow surfing in big
minute I have with the people I love. waves yet have that hunger to go back for
more!We accept wipeouts as part of our
What’s it like to wipe development process.
out and get hit by a
huge wave? How did you get into“My friend died when
In December 2008, I experienced a surfing?
major wipeout at Mullaghmore;the I started when I was 9.My Mum and DadI was 18 and when he
force at which the wave hit my head was had a holiday home in Castlerock.I wasdied I said to myself that
horrendous, it was the most violent.The a good swimmer and had been water
only way to describe the sheer impact skiing since I was six so it was just theI was going to live my
on my chest and back was like a brick next thing for me. I couldn’t get my arm
wall falling on my body. Did you ever round my surfboard so my Dad had tolife to the full to make
get smacked when you were small? carry it to the beach for me. I couldn’tup for his loss.Also my
Well if you remember waiting for the stand up but when my brother tried, he
initial impact and bracing yourself then stood up first time. I was determined toDad died very suddenly
that is the general idea of the mental stand after that! It was a stormy wintery
preparation before a wipeout occurs. November day and my surfboard waswhen I was 22 and the
There are occasions when the impact plastered in stickers and was all shinny.last thing we talked
hasn’t been as bad as I expected but I The funny thing was we knew so little
would be telling little white lies if I said about surfing that we put the wax onabout was the fact
that happened often. the bottom of the board like snow skis
instead of on the top for grip.that I wanted to go to
What other safetyMavericks in California.
precautions do you How did you get into
take? tow in surfing?I’ve learned that life is
People laugh at me for the amount of It was a natural progression from small
precautions I take but I don’t care as I wave surfing. It’s like a climber who hasshort and if we don’t live
know what can go wrong. Both Cotty been climbing for 10 years and has theit to the full now, before
and I have completed external jet ski choice to either stand at the bottom of an
qualifications and skipper licences as indoor climbing wall in the local leisurewe know it, it’s gone.”
P36 & 37: Al Mennie paddling over a mammoth wave at Aileens and narrowly avoiding being
sucked back over the falls. (Photos: Aaron Pierce – www.liquid-surf.com)
36|June-July|OUTSIDER
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