FOOD & DRINK
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Lupe Pinto’s
He describes breakfast in Singapore, lunch from a market in
Oaxaca and hotdogs for dinner from a Manhattan stall. I say he
should write a book. He already has. Two Cooks and a Suitcase
words Hannah Cherry · photos Susie Lowe
is stuffed full of recipes and stories from his travels.
I
’m standing in Lupe Pinto’s surrounded by Mexican chillies,
“When we first opened Lupe Pinto’s we wanted to show Mexican
Caribbean chutneys, Thai sauces and every international
food was about more than nachos. Dictated by our customers’
cooking ingredient imaginable. Yet I can’t take my eyes off
changing taste buds, we now incorporate Asian, American,
the candy table strewn with Reece’s Pieces and Nutrageous
Caribbean and Mediterranean foods too. I love sourcing new
bars. Resolutely American, the bold orange wrappers scream
things and hearing what our customers think,” he says.
of holidays, big yellow taxis and duty free. “That’s why they’re
here,” laughs Dougie Bell.
Dougie says he’s proud to have been one step ahead with
ingredients that have later become trends. “On Saturday
The charismatic owner of the Leven Street deli says some
Kitchen one of the chefs waxed lyrical about a new ingredient,
customers claim candy has no place in a serious deli. He
tinned Chipotle Chili Peppers. We’ve been stocking them for
disagrees. “Food is about experiences. I love that a smell, a taste
18 years,” he smiles. Delia Smith praised Pimentos de la Vera,
or even packaging can transport a customer to other times.”
excellent in paella; also on his shelves for years. Alongside
His time travel analogy is apt - travelling is the influence behind
esoteric ingredients, Lupe Pinto’s stocks all the staples and a
the festival of flavours gracing Lupe Pinto’s gloriously crowded
good selection of wines, tequilas and American beers.
shelves. Over 18 years ago Dougie and his partner, Rhoda, sold
I leave feeling like I’ve been on world tour and Dougie hands
their Edinburgh restaurant, and with empty bellies and full
me a souvenir: a Lupe Pinto’s canvas bag. “People have been
suitcases, headed Stateside. Their mission was to taste their
spotted everywhere with them – we even spied one in the
way around New Orleans, Texas, LA and Mexico. “It was the
crowd at Obama’s inauguration.”
most memorable year of my life,” says Dougie. “I’m a serious
foodie. I’ve always been fascinated by the diversity of cuisines Lupe Pinto’s, 24 Leven St, Edinburgh, EH3 9LJ, Tel: 0131 228 6241
from state to state. To have the chance to meet so many and 313 Great Western Rd, Glasgow, G4 9HR, Tel: 0141 334 5444,
characters… that’ll stay with me forever.” www.lupepintos.com
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