Page 10 midwest horse digest April 09
Choosing the Right Equipment
By Cynthia McFarland with Chris Cox
Chris always makes the first few rides in the more trouble if you step up to a stronger bit.”
halter and lead rope, and makes sure the For working and general riding,
horse is responding well before moving on to a Chris uses a simple harness leather headstall
fixed D-ring snaffle. Chris specifically designed with a sliding browband and a throatlatch.
his signature D-ring snaffle bit so that, unlike When a horse is further along in his training,
most snaffles, the “D” is fixed and won’t Chris uses split leather reins, but when training
swivel. The copper-inlaid mouthpiece is he prefers a single sport rein made of poly
contoured so it will rest correctly in the horse’s cotton blend round rope.
mouth without pinching the bars of the mouth. Saddles & Proper Fit
“The contour makes this Chris typically rides in an all-around
bit especially effective for lateral work as saddle he designed that is custom-made to his
opposed to a straight bit,” notes Chris. “It also specifications by a Texas saddle maker. It is
discourages the horse from flipping his nose the same signature saddle offered for sale on
out and at the same time, encourages him to his website. Everything on the saddle, includ-
soften and bend at the poll.” ing the tree, is 100% made in the U.S.
Because of the fixed D-ring, a chin “My saddles are made with13- to
strap is optional with this snaffle. The bit 15-ounce Herman Oak leather, which makes
can’t pull through the horse’s them less heavy, but more importantly, puts
mouth the way a traditional me closer to my horse,” he explains. “I like a
snaffle can. When using close contact, centered smooth leather seat
a regular snaffle with- without a lot of buildup. This lets me sit as
Whether you’re
out a fixed mouth- close to my horse’s back as possible for better
building a house or riding a
piece, it’s important communication.”
horse, using proper tools
to always use a Too many riders overlook the impor-
makes any task easier. You
chin strap to keep tance of proper saddle fit. Just because the
can have the best theories
the bit in place. saddle feels good to the rider doesn’t neces-
and skills in the world, but
In addi- sarily mean it fits the horse. A saddle that
without the right equipment
tion to the fixed doesn’t fit correctly will lead to trouble and
you’re not going to get very far.
D-ring snaffle, which compromise the horse’s performance. It can
“I’m a firm believer in the
he uses mostly for even cause pain and physical problems, such
fact that technique and ability are far
training, Chris has designed as muscle atrophy, sore back, lameness
more important than relying on more
a loose jaw snaffle and two styles of issues and more.
equipment. To me, natural horsemanship is
shank curb bits. He finds many riders want to “Your saddle is built on a tree,
using the least equipment necessary to get
move on to a shank, or leverage, bit too soon. which is just like a skeleton. If the bars of the
effective results,” says popular clinician and
“You shouldn’t do this until you can tree don’t properly fit your horse’s back, the
two-time Road to the Horse Champion Chris
accomplish everything you want to do in a saddle isn’t going to fit, no matter how pretty it
Cox. “You need to use the right tools, but the
snaffle,” Chris points out. “Some people is on top,” says Chris. “If you have any doubts
more equipment you have to use, the more
mistakenly think that the more bit they put in about your saddle fitting your particular horse,
you’re getting away from improving your
their horse’s mouth, the more they can do with you should consult a saddle maker or saddle
natural horsemanship.”
him. Results come through hands, knowledge fitter.”
Bits & Basics
and technique – not the bit. If you aren’t getting Check for any dry spots on your
When starting a young horse,
results with a snaffle, you’re just going to have horse’s back when you unsaddle. The horse’s
back should be uniformly sweaty under the
saddle. If your saddle doesn’t fit right, too
much pressure will be concentrated in certain
areas and if used consistently over time this
will actually damage nerves (resulting in dry
spots) and destroy pigment in those areas. If
you see a horse with white saddle marks on
his back, this is often the reason why.
Make sure you aren’t making the
common mistake of placing your saddle too far
forward on the horse’s back. If the saddle is
too far forward, the tree will actually sit on top
of your horse’s scapula, or shoulder blade.
This will sore your horse, limit his front end
movement, shorten his stride and make him
stiff.
“The saddle should be placed so
that it fits just behind the scapula,” notes Chris.
“When you saddle up, always reach under the
gullet of the saddle and pull any mane hairs
loose from under the pad. Then pull the front
of the pad up into the gullet so you create a
‘tunnel’ that allows air to flow under the
saddle.”
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