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mains a little sauce from the bottom
Epicurean Quartet
of the pot. I really enjoy taking a
piece of Italian bread and soaking
Fine Dining Review and Profile
up this sauce. Well, now think about
a soup with a strong hint of that
By Charles McKenna flavor. It was very good.
The second course from the
Tapas Menu brought four more
Oscar’s of St. James
exciting selections for Tim and
Elise. Oven Roasted Spanish
is born again!
Chorizo with Onion Compote, Old
World Meatballs with Goat Cheese
For the faithful followers of the Epicurean Quartet we would like to announce Risotto, Sauteed Baby Spinach with
the birth of a gorgeous baby girl. Our regular writer, my beautiful daughter, Shaugh- Pine Nuts and Raisins, and finally
nessy Anne, is the proud new Momma of Caleigh Erin Dusling. It is for this reason Moroccan Marquez wrapped in Po-
Shaughnessy and Kevin did not join us for our monthly foray as the Epicurean Quar- tato Chips. The Chorizo, made from
tet. In their stead are great friends, Tim and Elise McCarthy. coarsely chopped pork and seasoned
Our selection this month once again brings us to St. James. While we try our with smoked pimentón (paprika)
best to move about the North Shore, the recent introduction of Chef Philippe Corbet and salt. This particular Chorizo
as principal and Chef at Oscar’s after a very successful run as Executive Chef at was more picante [spicy] than dulce
Bouley in Manhattan, made it worthwhile. [sweet]. The roasting and the Onion
Walking up to Oscar’s, across the sand and gravel parking lot, past the wisps of sea Compote deepened the flavor. The
grass, you get the feel as though you are somewhere on Martha’s Vineyard, out in Old World Meatballs were fantas-
Montauk or even down on the Jersey shore. There is a distinct beach house flair to tic, especially when enjoyed with
the place. Once inside the summer home feeling abounds. A refreshing color palate the fluffy Goat Cheese Risotto.
in the décor, decorated with fine art from The Christopher Gallery in Stony Brook Everyone had an opportunity to
Village, combined with the rich tones of the wooden furnishings, crisp table dressing sample the meatballs and risotto and
and the two stacked stone floor to ceiling fireplaces, you can’t help but feel comfort- thoroughly enjoyed the dish.
ably at home. The entrees from the Din-
Smithtown Restaurant Week brought a full house to Oscar’s. There was not an ner Menu were Bacon Wrapped
empty seat in the house, including the bar area. We were a little concerned that the Chicken Breast for Cyndi and I had the Slow Braised Beef Short Ribs. The chicken
crowd might adversely affect service or quality. I am pleased to share with you that came served with a delicious cheddar potato mousseline, garlic spinach, asparagus,
this was not the case at all. Service was perfect. Our competent waitress attended mushroom and rosemary jus. The Short Ribs were prepared bourguignon and served
to all of our needs once seated by the profes- with smoked bacon and baby vegetables.
sional and gracious host and co-owner, Robert. The meat was tender and pulled apart ef-
A special Prix Fixe menu was imple- fortlessly. It almost melted in your mouth.
mented for Restaurant Week. The menu had Both dishes were very good.
two primary options, a Tapas Menu and a Din- Dessert was no less impressive. Of particu-
ner Menu. Tim and Elise opted for the Tapas lar note were the Apple Beignets and the
Menu, while Cyndi and I elected to enjoy the Cheescake Panna Cotta. Wow, these were
Dinner Menu. The Tapas menu was offered in very good. The sliced apples were lightly
two courses with each course consisting of six floured and fried gently, flavored with real
electives and included a Tapas dessert selec- maple syrup and served with Vanilla Ice
tion. The Prix Fixe was $25. The Dinner Menu Cream. Panna cotta is an Italian dessert
offered one appetizer from a selection of four.
We had four choices for our entrée as well.
Three options for dessert were included in the
$25 Prix Fixe.
Arriving to the table for the first course were
two selections for each from the Tapas Menu
for Tim and Elise. The dishes served included
Marinated Grilled Shrimp Cocktail, Bison To-
stada and Guacamole, Tuna Tar Tar and House
Chips as well as Fried Smoked Calamari and
Thai Dipping Sauce. Before going further with
this profile it should first be mentioned that the
plating and presentation of each and every dish
was, in and of itself, a work of art. The shrimp
was flavorful and delicious. The cocktail sauce
was tangy and tasty. The Bison Tostada was a
hearty dish, especially for Tapas. The dish has
a great mix of texture and spice. The Tuna Tar
Tar was great. Elise is a lover of sushi and she
was very pleased with the Tuna. The house
made chips were a perfect accompaniment.
The presentation of the Tuna Tar Tar was neat
in a small mason-styled jar. The Thai Dipping
sauce which came with the Fried Calamari
was delicious. The sauce only enhanced the
delicately fried calamari.
From the Dinner Menu, our appetizer
selections arrived. Cyndi ordered an enticing
Roasted Red and Golden Beet Napoleon. This
flavorful and colorful dish was served with
Danish Blue Cheese, Candied Nuts and Shallot Vinaigrette. I enjoyed the Roasted made by simmering together cream, milk and sugar, mixing this with gelatin, and
Tomato Soup with Basil and Olive Croutons. The best way that I can explain or letting it cool until set. The Cheescake Panna Cotta was served with a blueberry lime
describe the flavor of this soup is to say that when you are at home making a rich sauce.
tomato sauce for pasta, from scratch, you pour off the finished sauce, in the pot re- For some time I avoided Oscar’s. I had been there once for lunch when it was
12
Improper Northshoerian April 20010 10 4/2/2009 10:20:14 AM
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