as this culinary wall of fame pays dutiful The first course, a savory crab cheesecake favorite culinary journeys: experiencing
homage to these motivating masters. The with a parmesan bread crumb crust, is layers of flavor. I take another sip
photos give me a subtle confidence before served with a subtle but distinctly flavored of the soup. Each savory spoonful
starting the meal. Surely, no chef would roasted red pepper sauce. I fear that the releases more flavors as it plays with
dare march a parade of dishes less than sizable portion will derail my appetite for my taste buds.
right under the watchful eye of such an 7 more courses. One bite into this light
haute cuisine honor guard. and airy starter convinces me otherwise. Some chefs can accomplish this
because they assume nothing, are
The menu changes daily. “It is about the The presentation enhances my next course never casual about spicing or
quality of ingredients available,” says Held. of wild mushroom soup with leeks and flavoring a dish and use only the
“I want to serve what is the best right now.” white truffle oil. The bowl arrives with finest, freshest ingredients. They know
Dining with two friends, we try the Chef’s braised leeks, topped with toasted brioche, there is a point of perfection when all
Tasting Menu. Held recommends that meticulously placed in the center. The server the flavors of the dish work together
everyone at the table should order it, pours the soup tableside. As she pours subtle and escort the diner on this flavor
enabling a simultaneous serving of all aromas of truffle waft my way. I try the soup. journey. I love when this happens.
8 courses to each diner. The taste evolves. I am now on one of my
Pan roasted sea scallops with
mushroom risotto follow next. Risotto
can be tricky, especially in a busy
kitchen, cooking in quantity. If not
given full attention it will become a
glutinous mass. This risotto had the
chef’s attention! The dish flavored
with chanterelle mushrooms has a
sweet earthy flavor accented by just
a hint of truffle oil. Sometimes Held
serves this waffle-cut, crispy edged
scallop with a potato puree or topped
with crispy potato slices instead of
the risotto.
The fish course, a pan seared grouper
with a mandarin orange sauce, is
served with a potato gallette,
asparagus and garlic confit. This
serving is perfectly portioned for an
8 plate dinner.
One of Held’s signature dishes arrives
next. The quail en crepinette is a tasty
little sausage using semi-boneless Euro
quail meat which is minced, nicely
spiced and wrapped on a Frenched
quail bone. He adds a flavorful mini
tower of diced honeyed turnips
prepared with a white wine vinegar
glaze. The turnips offset the richness
of the full flavored game bird.
Beautifully seared and served rare,
sliced bison tenderloin with cherry
sauce and spinach is the next course.
This is a straightforward dish that
succeeds because the high quality of
the tender organic meat. It is paired
with a tasty, yet not overpowering,
sauce. Pureed sweet potatoes keep
the dish in a wintery theme
The cheese course is a Petit Basque
brebis, a mild olive like, slightly
woodsy tasting artisan cheese from
N
A
the Pyrenees.
M
O
For the final tasting, dessert, I have a
W
choice. I choose the warm chocolate
T
Y
N
fondant. The melting chocolate middle
U contrasts nicely with the vanilla ice
O
C
cream served alongside.
K
S
C I leave the restaurant happy to have
B
U
5
0
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