SPRING 2005 • PAGE 3
e
SAILING DESTINATIONS
By Lee Miller & David Mulliss
T
onga is one of the
South Pacific's most
spectacular sailing
meccas, featuring a huge
variety of both sailing
grounds and locations. If
you don’t sail in with your
own boat, yacht charters
are readily available, either
from Sunsail, Moorings or
one of a number of private
chartering operations.
The Ha’apai group of
islands in the middle of
Tonga is a wonderland of
beautiful clear water,
extensive coral reefs and
colorful fish. Whales frequent the islands of Tonga, tame as those in Vava’u. They are not as willing to
which is one of only two countries in the world where let people approach closely or communicate with
people are allowed to swim with them. However, if you’re them. Mother whales with their young can be seen
someone who prefers rowdy Friday night parties over your in Tongatapu, which is a night sail or quick day sale
own private anchorage, you can find that here, too! from Ha’apai. The peak time to spot mother whales
Vava’u is the main destination for yachts traveling to
with their newborn calves is from late August through
Tonga. This island sports white sand, tropical beaches
September.
set against towering cliffs, and is surrounded by coral We spotted three mothers teaching the new-borns to
atolls and very deep water. Vava’u boasts the locally breathe, swim, dive and frolic near H’apai. It was
famous Moorings Guide, and all the anchorages and bays pure magic! Ha’apai itself is a gentle world with
have become known by their numbers: The yachties talk horses, peace and quiet—a land virtually unchanged
about “Number 16” as the bay where they anchored for the last half century. Expect idyllic, long, sandy
rather than the name one might find on a chart. beaches lined with coconut trees.
Whale watching season extends from July to early
continued on page 10
November. The whales in the Ha’apai group are not as
LIVING THE DREAM • CHRIS & JEFF STACK
continued from page 1
the ASA in the night, we felt a strange discord in the
anxiety of having left some of the best employment of
our lives and the serenity of knowing that there was
absolutely no way to turn back.
The dream for which we traded comfort and prosperity
was that of a low, sleek and salty sailboat on which we
could live and make a living. For years we looked for a
Hull on the strongback in Florida. Half of the first layer of
reasonable gaff rigged classic boat in good condition. planking is complete
What we often found were neglected wooden boats in
desperate need of everything. With this in mind, we
frustration of years of preparation, or the encouragement
decided we would need to build the boat in order to have
of a television motivational speaker that rationalized this
it all.
otherwise ridiculous decision to quit our jobs and pursue
building her now. Nevertheless it was boatbuilding or
I cannot be sure whether it was the daily taunting by the
bust. And the odds for such a venture, based on
thousands of sailboats in the harbor, the mounting
everything I ever read on the subject, overwhelmingly
continued on page 4
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