PAGE 10 • WINTER 2005 THE JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN SAILING ASSOCIATION
FEATURE STORY
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sailing the waters of the San Juan Islands and the
Pacific Northwest. Only one thing was missing, but
it took eleven years of grey wet winters before its
lure pulled me back to the warm trade winds and
blue waves where it all began.
Vegas to Vincent
An opportunity to instruct sailing in St. Vincent and
the Grenadines that probably had been available for
years suddenly appeared before me like a Las Vegas
marquis, and a week later I was circling above the
airport of St. Vincent while down below, ground
crews were chasing a dog from the runway. The door (Top) Lowe (right) dresses in the traditional garb of a British officer.
to the plane opened, and I felt the collision of two
(Below) The author chooses a slightly more comfortable outfit for
worlds: the dry, air-conditioned, body-odor-filled
cleaning baracuda on the swim platform.
plane air easily gave way as I stepped into the most of the Caribbean since then, I realize that I saw the
fragrant blast furnace of the Caribbean. Stepping out and best part of the Caribbean first.
crossing the hot tarmac to meet or leave a plane really
puts air travel into proper perspective when a body can After being on St. Vincent for a short while, I’d become
stand next to the whining, dripping, searing hot machine so used to being a minority as a Caucasian that it
that hurtles one through space in its comfy belly. I always became surprising to me when I would see other
have to mutter humble thanks when I survive. Caucasians, in fact I began to be surprised when I’d see
myself in the mirror sometimes! I was quick to notice
St. Vincent is a lovely volcanic island that hasn’t ever when a group of guys who looked American showed at
really hit big on the tourism radar. Black sand beaches the local Jump Up (street party) and found out they were
may not draw in the tourists, but nowhere else have I building a set for the film Pirates of the Caribbean. They
ever been as amazed at the scenery from a bus stop. informed me that Disney was looking for extras and
Many old cruisers say that from St. Vincent south to suddenly my life changed tack again—I was going to be
Grenada is the last of the “old Caribbean” where the a pirate!
locals are quick to engage if you say hello or goodnight,
and evidence of crack cocaine is still rare. Having sailed
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