PAGE 12 • SPRING 2006 THE JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN SAILING ASSOCIATION
ADVENTURES IN CRUISING
Corsica - Gem of the Mediterranean
A
ll my dreams came true the day
and Moors were among the later
we landed in Corsica. After
invaders. The Genoese from
several days of leisurely strolling
Italy ruled Corsica from the
the streets of Nice, France, it was
1400s-1700s, occasionally
honestly pretty hard to drag ourselves to
coming to blows with the local
the airport to catch our flight from Nice
aristocracy, nationalists and the
to Corsica. Alongside my first-mate and
French. A nationalist rebellion
chef, Louize Christensen, I had enjoyed
led to the foundation of a
lingering meals with fine crisp wine at
Corsican republic in 1755 but
sunny seaside tables, so I was in no
their independence was short-
rush to get to the airport. However,
lived. The Genoese ceded the
when our plane swooped down over
island to France, whose troops
giant green mountains and cliffs and
invaded in 1769. Corsica has
dropped onto a tiny landing strip, I got
therefore only been French for
those familiar butterflies in my
only about 200 of its 4000-year
stomach. A new place to discover and
history, and has many
Stacey (above) watches the world go by while sipping one
better yet - it is French, which for me
indigenous traditions -
of the fine wines of Corsica. (Right) A French flag in the
means the opportunity to speak French
gastronomic, musical and
harbor indicates the most recent of Corsica’s nationalities.
and lots of excuses to drink wine and
cultural. The birthplace of
eat gourmet food at every meal.
Napoleon Bonaparte, Corsica is not
Always looking for adventure, our next
short on national pride. Famous for its
Fantasy Sail will be exploring the
Balzac described Corsica as a “French
extremely independent spirit, rugged
beautiful islands of Croatia. If you are
island basking in the Italian sun,” but
beauty, olive oil, wine and citrus fruit,
searching for something new and
this island has a character that is
Corsica is a destination that will please
adventurous, check out our website!
entirely its own. This beautiful, wild
you whether you are at sea or on land.
playground is the ultimate combination
Sea Dog Sailing, Inc.
destination - physical exertion while
Our sailing trip began in the
www.seadogsailing.com
sailing in the natural elements by day,
southwestern port of Ajaccio aboard a
captstacey@seadogsailing.com
then strolling fishing villages by
Beneteau 464 from Moorings. Ajaccio
(877) 4SEADOG
evening enjoying French wine and
is famous for (and very proud of) being
cuisine.
the birth city of Napoleon. The “Maison
Bonaparte” is now a museum for the
Sailing in Corsica is not for the faint of
Corsica is in the western Mediterranean,
public to enjoy.
heart or for the navigationally
challenged. The rugged coastline is
just to the north of Sardinia, it’s 99
miles southeast of Nice, France, and
Time to provision
famous for rocks lying just beneath the
surface, and weather that seems to
only 51 miles west of Tuscany, Italy, so
The Moorings office in Ajaccio is
have absolutely no pattern or prediction
it is easily accessible by either jumper
located in the main port and was very
requires that the skipper and crew have
flight or ferry crossing. Corsica has the
friendly and helpful. Being able to
a good handle on a reasonable itinerary.
highest mountains and most rivers of
speak French is a big plus in Corsica.
Having sailed Corsica, it is crucial to
any Mediterranean island; high cliffs
Luckily, both my first-mate/chef and I
point out that you need up to three
and rocky inlets characterize much of
speak French. We thrived on getting
different back-up plans per day in case
its coast. The interior boasts deep
our boat walk through done only in
your initial one does not pan out. This
forests, glacial lakes, gorges and snow-
French; it was, at times, challenging
was confirmed to us on our fourth day
capped granite peaks. The island is
but mostly a lot of fun. It was, however,
of sailing when our destination was
studded with standing stones, forts and
quite tough trying to get through that
intended to be the village of Bonifacio
other monuments, evidence of human
and provisioning because the seaside
on the extreme southern tip of Corsica.
occupation in Neolithic times.
cafes beckoned you at every turn to
The weather report called for 10-15
come sit down, drink some fine wine
An abundance of history
knots of wind but what we ended up
and watch the world go by. It was
experiencing was wind up to 55 knots,
The Greeks, Carthaginians and Romans incentive to get it done promptly and
low visibility and pounding rain and
have all left their mark. Vandals, Goths thoroughly for our guests’ arrival!
seas. Corsican and Sardinian weather is
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