WINTER menus
boiling point for 30 seconds, skim the impurities, lower the heat to about
Canard confit: haricots bean 80ºC and check with a probe. Cook for 3 hours at this temperature (*7). Cool
down in the duck fat, and reserve.
Duck leg confit: flageolet beans
Cooking the beans
in persillade Whilst the duck legs are cooking, mix the beans and all the other ingredients
in a saucepan. Bring to the boil for 2 minutes and skim; lower the heat to
“This dish represents what the nutritionists call the French paradox. The the most gently simmer, one single bubble breaking to the surface. Cook the
people in the south-west of France are known to be the most ferocious beans for 50 or 60 minutes (*8). Taste to see if they are perfectly cooked, the
carnivores. In this region, mountains of fat, foie gras and meat are enjoyed. beans should be soft and melting, the signs are tiny little blisters in the skin,
Yet in that region we have the least cardiovascular problems or illness, also but always taste.
they have the longest lifespan. Nutritionists are baffled by this. Maybe it’s due
to the quality of life in this part of the world, the fact that the very best fruit and To serve
vegetables are eaten, together with, of course, a fair amount of best local red In a non-stick pan, on medium heat, crisp up and colour the duck legs on the
wine... a thirty-five hour week and a quieter life!” skin side for 5–7 minutes.
Transfer the beans and cooking juices into a shallow serving dish, add the
Difficulty rating: extra virgin olive oil and parsley; top with the confit of duck legs, and serve.
Serves (Yield): 4
Preparation time: 15 minutes/12 hours curing the duck Chef’s notes (*)
Cooking time: 2 hours *1 If you are using dried beans, especially red kidney beans, be careful as
they hold a toxin within. They can be neutralised in two steps; first soak the
Planning ahead beans over night for 12 hours, and discard the water used for soaking, as
You can cook the duck legs 2 days in advance and keep them in the duck many of the toxins will have leaked out into the water. Second step cooking
fat. If you use dried beans, soak them for 12 hours (*1) in advance. the beans; the cooking process will kill the toxins and make the food safe. If
you don’t do these steps, badly cooked beans may cause you illness Dried
Ingredients beans are an excellent addition to your dry store.
For the duck legs *2 Use the best ducks available. I prefer to use the French variety of Challan,
4 large duck legs (*2) (200g each) Barbary, and from the Bresse area; but now we also have some excellent
30g rock salt English varieties of Gressingham duck or Trelough ducks from the Hereford
1 level tbsp black peppercorns, crushed Duck Company.
4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced *3 Duck fat contains a lot of mono saturated fat.
2 bay leaves, finely sliced *4 Of course you can get dried beans all year around, but fresh is best.
4 sprigs thyme, picked My favourites are coco and flageolet or tarbais. They are available at their
800g duck fat (*3) best during the months of July and August, and they grow very well in the
British climate.
For the beans *5 Often people say that salt toughens up the wall or skin of the beans and
400g flageolet beans fresh (*4) that it also lengthens the cooking time. And that the salt has difficulty in
½ onion, peeled, chopped permeating the beans; I have not found that to be true, unless you put 30g
4 garlic, peeled, halved of salt to 1ltr of water.
100g bacon, streaky, smoked—chopped finely (optional) *6 Salt has been used as a way of preserving for thousands of years, and
1 bay leaf, 4 sprigs thyme and 1 clove man has depended on it for their own survival. During the curing effect, the
800g water salt permeates the meat or fish, extracting the water, by doing so, kills the
1 tsp pepper, black freshly ground bacteria. But what the cook gets excited about is the changes in the texture
2 pinches sea salt (*5) and flavour of the meat or fish.
*7 This method of cooking the duck legs or confit can be used for any other
To finish the dish meat. Once cured the meat is immersed in duck fat and cooked at a low
4 tbsp olive oil, extra virgin temperature which will give a succulent richness to the meat as well as a very
2 tbsp flat parsley much-loved flavour. Some people love their duck completely over-cooked
and falling off the bone; personally I prefer it medium. So, accordingly,
Method lengthen the cooking time.
Curing the duck legs NB. In the past the meat was preserved in the duck fat. Today you should
Lay the duck legs on a small tray, flesh side upwards and distribute the rock only keep the duck legs in the fat for 3 days to be safe.
salt, crushed pepper, garlic, thyme and bay leaves evenly over. Cling film, and *8 There is a very low quantity of salt, so if you don’t use the bacon in this
cure over night (12 hours) (*6). recipe add a little more salt.
Cooking the duck legs Variations
Wash off the curing mix and pat dry with kitchen paper. Pack the duck legs If flageolet beans are not available use cocoa beans which are an excellent
in a saucepan and cover with the melted duck fat; bring the temperature to replacement.
www.raymondblanc.com RAYMOND BLANC’s SEASONS 77
RBS11_Classics 70-72.vp.indd 77 28/11/08 4:52:04 pm
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