The wing spar saddle is shaped to fit the dihedral exactly and installed after covering for accurate alignment (above left). The right wing panel is blocked up for proper polyhedral angle (above right). The main wing panel
is kept flat on the work surface while the wing tip is proped up allowing the wing to dry (below left). The bare bones of the Yard Stik (below right). The frame is given an overall sanding before covering with So-Lite.
stick from the hobby shop. I have ripped dry cedar fence pickets on the table saw for fuse- lage sticks. Or you could use a lightweight yardstick from a hardware store, the kind that measures 36 × 1¹⁄₈ × ⁵⁄₃₂ inches and weighs under 50 grams. The standard fuselage stick measures ³⁄₁₆
× ⁵⁄₁₆ × 23 inches. Cut the wing mount py- lon from ³⁄₁₆-inch balsa (or three laminations
of ¹⁄₁₆-inch balsa). A drill mounted sanding drum is helpful in shaping the pylon. Glue the pylon in place on the stick. Glue the ¹⁄₃₂- inch ply doublers to the pylon. Note, the spar saddle is installed after covering. A fuselage made from a yardstick adds a
fun dimension to the model, but since a yardstick is a little thin, increase its thick- ness to ⁵⁄₈ inch; 23 inches long, and cut the
wing mount pylon, spar saddle and motor- mount (if used) from the same yardstick. No doublers are needed on a fuselage made from a yardstick. Two different motor mounting options are
shown on the plans. For the stick mount mo- tors like the GWS IPS-A Pico Stik motor, cut and splice the fuselage stick and re-glue as shown on the plan to provide downthrust.
The Yard Stik’s signature fuselage made from a wooden yard stick (above left). Choose a yard stick that measures 1-inch wide × 5
⁄32 FLYING MODELS
-inch thick
and weighs under 50 grams. Monofliament fishing line and epoxy make a strong, clear way to attach the landing gear (above right).
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