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Yard Stik


The fin and stab structure is simple and light (above left). Use a cardboard template copied from the plans to help in cutting the ribs (above right). Once cut, the ribs can be stacked and sanded. Wing parts cut and


trimmed, ready for final assembly (below left). The wing goes together fast, thanks to the simple structure. The left and right wing panels are added to the main wing panel with the correct dihedral (below right).


Start by gathering all the needed compo-


nents. Choose a 20- to 30-watt motor that weighs about an ounce. You’ll need a match- ing ESC, two 6-gram servos, a light receiver and a 2-cell Li-Po battery of 360–610 mAh. Remember that lighter flies better. A GWS Pico Stik kit (available from


Grand Wing Servo, www.gwsus.com, could be used to supply the motor and propeller,


fuselage stick, wheels and wire. Or the fuse- lage can be made from spruce or an actual yardstick. You’ll need some ¹⁄₁₆-inch and ¹⁄₈- inch balsa, ¹⁄₃₂-inch ply and a ¹⁄₈-inch hard- wood dowel for the leading edge. Begin by building the tail surfaces over


the plans protected by wax paper. Cut and glue ¹⁄₈-inch balsa sticks as shown on the plan. When dry, remove from the plans and


sand a bevel on the leading edge of the rud- der and the elevator and a matching bevel on the trailing edge of the stabilizer and the fin so they will not bind when covered and hinged. Slightly round and smooth all outer edges with fine sandpaper. Build the fuselage next. There are sever-


al options for the fuselage stick. You can use a GWS Pico Stik fuselage stick or spruce


Small spring mounted plastic clamps aid in keeping the polyhedral brace in position as the glue dries (above left). A 2204-14T outrunner is the


22


recommended motor (above right). Built-in motor mount and prop saver are a bonus. A simple yet effective motor mount is also made of a yard stick.


FEBRUARY 2012


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