Mister Mulligan
The Mister Mulligancomponents as they came out of the box (at left). A very complete package that included every nut, bolt, and fastener that was needed. All the wing servos are mounted on hardwood blocks glued to the inside of the servo bay covers (above). The completed flap control linkage installation (below left) is both neat and functional. After a minor adjustment to its lower edge, the slot for the landing gear strut in the side of the fuselage (below) provided for an accurate fit.
the necessary mounting holes and brackets were provided. Again, that amount of at- tention to detail on the part of ElectriFly saved me a lot of time. The first step in assembling the fuselage involved installing the landing gear. Each side of the two-piece gear slips into a slot in the side of the fuselage and the gear is bolt- ed to the landing gear mounting plate. When I first tried, the gear wouldn’t slip in far enough to line up the holes in the land- ing gear with the mounting holes on the landing gear plate. A quick readjustment of the slot’s lower edge with my sanding stick solved the problem and the gear slipped right in place. I also recommend that you make sure to
test fit the rudder before you glue the tail wheel bushing in place as the bushing may need to be recessed a bit into the bottom of the fuselage to get everything to line up. I didn’t and I had to re-drill the hole in the rudder for the tail gear wire to make it work. My fault for not paying attention. Other than that, everything else was pretty much as the manual outlined. The servos and pushrods fit right in place and the provided ESC mount was both convenient and appreciated. The most tedious part of the whole process
was getting the cowl and dummy engine as- sembled and mounted. I did take my time to make sure it came out right and I have to say, it was well worth the effort. The cowl
with its dummy engine in place looks great. To make the dummy engine look right it’s necessary to install the valve pushrod tubes. This involves drilling holes in the valve cov- ers and then drilling corresponding holes in the center crankcase. To make it look right, the spacing of all
the pushrod tubes needs to be consistent. I did this by placing a thin strip of painter’s tape around the crankcase and marking the location of the holes before I drilled them. Also, before I drilled each hole, I pierced the plastic with a sharp needle type scribe to act as a starting hole. This worked out well. One deviation from the manual was that
I needed to use a ⁵⁄₆₄-inch diameter drill rather than the ³⁄₃₂-inch drill recommended.
Jim used painters tape to mark the location of the holes for the dummy engine pushrod tubes (above left). He also used a pointed scribe to punch
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a guide hole before drilling. The completed dummy engine (above right) ready to be mounted inside the cowl. Note the weathering on the cylinders.
JANUARY 2012
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