PHOTOS: JIRO SUGIMOTO, COURTESY OF TOM SCHMITT
Japanese modeler, Jiro Sugimoto, continues to create masterpieces of Peanut Scale (above left). The incredible detailing of the pilot figure, the engine manifold and exhaust, and the wood grain propeller (above right) make this 13-
captions even mentions delivering “as many as 5000 models a week” to the Army. While David couldn’t provide the exact reference source for the page, for more in- formation about this remarkable company and Jim Walker’s prodigious effect on mod- eling, spend a little time on the web site con- structed by the late Frank Macy at www.
americanjuniorclassics.com.
The Ultimate One Design contest The Shonai model club in Nagoya, Japan
has long been noted and highly-regarded for their dedication to Peanut Scale modeling and the outstanding models that have come from club members. One of the best (and best-known) of those modelers is Jiro Sugi- moto, whose beautifully rendered models are an inspiration to free flighters through- out the world. For quite some time, we have known
about Jiro through his connection with American modelers, among them members of the likewise highly regarded DC Maxe- cuters club from the metropolitan Washing- ton, DC area. Jiro’s models have shown up in the club’s newsletter and more lately through the efforts of Tom Schmitt, who pe- riodically shares photos and activities of the club on the web. Recently, Tom’s posting featured two pho-
tos of Jiro’s Jodel D9 Bebe built specifically for the local Shonai club’s “One-Design” con- test in 2010. There are no appropriate com- ments to be made concerning this model. Feast your eyes on it and marvel at the craftsmanship and detail incorporated into a 13-inch stick and tissue creation. Sort of
inch Jodel D9 Bebe a museum-quality piece of art. Much time was spent in giving the model the detail seen here. It was constructed for a local Shonai club “One Design” contest in Nagoya, Japan.
makes you want to give up modeling and take up golf, doesn’t it?
Fastening those windshields Long-time reader and prolific modeler,
Bob Spinks, who does a lot of building dur- ing the long winter months in Chamberlain, South Dakota, called the other night be- cause he was having trouble getting the windshield of his latest project fastened to his satisfaction. I suggested to Bob that even though he was using commercial canopy glue, he might try the following alternative ideas to make things easier. The secret to getting windshields to stay in
place is to make use of the glue’s set-up time by treating it like contact cement and just doing one part of the windshield at a time. As an example, I’ve included a photo of the windshield on my Micro-X Pilatus Porter CO2 semi-scale ship that was mounted in that fashion, and Roger Schroeder’s DH84 Dragon Rapide with a lot of glass area. Begin by trimming the windshield to size
and shape, taping it in place, re-trimming it, and re-taping it in place using small pieces of blue painters’ tape until you are satisfied with the fit. Now, using a tooth pick put a thin bead of glue on the upper portion of the windshield where it contacts the top of the fuselage just ahead of the wing. At the same time, put a thin bead of glue on the fuselage cross-mem- ber at that location. Let both of those beads of glue set up to the point that they are just barely white and then press them together. Ordinarily, hand pressure alone is sufficient, but you can use pins or small pieces of tape to help hold everything in place.
Give this assembly plenty of time to dry— usually several hours, and then do the same thing to one of the side posts that will hold the vertical edge of the windshield. Let that juncture set up and dry and then apply matching thin beads of glue to the other ver- tical post and the other vertical edge of the windshield. Again, let the glue get suffi- ciently tacky so it won’t run or squeeze out, then wrap the windshield around and press the two elements together in the same man- ner. Clean up any smudges with a damp Q- Tip. After everything dries, you are finished and may apply tissue trim over the locations or not—the choice is up to you. “Wait a minute,” you say. “You’ve not put
any glue on the bottom of the windshield where it touches the cowl!” Bingo! You win the prize! That is the secret to the process— no glue at the windshield cowl joint. No mess, no glue spots, no oozes, and no finger prints enshrined on the windshield of your beautiful new model. There is no need for glue at that location. It’s not load bearing, it isn’t necessary to seal the area off, and it saves a heck of a lot of frustration. Of course, you can glue the joint if you
want to do so, as is evident in the close-up photo of Jiro’s exact scale Jodel, but for sport applications where perfection is not an is- sue, simplify, simplify, simplify! That takes care of our time and space this month. Stay tuned next month for news about an exciting WWII contest and more good tips and great models from our readers. Happy New Year to all, and may the coming year provide many opportunities to throw something into the air!
PHOTO: LARRY KRUSE
Author’s method of fastening windshields on sport and semi-scale models simplifies the task and makes it less frustrating. His Micro-X Pilatus PorterCO2
FLYING MODELS
PHOTO: ROGER SCHROEDER
powered semi-scale ship (above left) shows the results of the process. The late Roger Schroeder’s DH84 Dragon Rapidefor Hillman Airways (above right).
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