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The canopy is molded from .030 K&S plastic sheets and is secured with epoxy and screws (above left). Paint simulates the frame. The headrest


guide. Remove the foam and scuff up the in- side with a wire wheel. Apply another layer of four-ounce cloth to the inside, this time, using Z-Poxy. Dry fit the cowl frame and ring in place. Temporarily secure the frame with Du-Bro’s #4 button head sheet metal screws ½-inch long and screw the assembly to F1. Install the Brison 3.2 with the spinner backplate on the crank shaft. Make any adjustments nec- essary around the spinner and the fuselage. Permanently attach the frame to the cowl with epoxy and the screws. Epoxy the cowl ring in place. Here is a finishing technique that is easy


to apply. Takes about two weeks and yields a good result. Brush on a full strength coat of Valspar Lacquer Sanding Sealer (NAS1420). One of those two-inch inexpen- sive disposable brushes is ideal for this ap- plication. Sand lightly with 220-grit sand- paper. Apply ¾-ounce fiberglass cloth over the surfaces, brushing through it with the sealer thinned 100% with lacquer thinner. Sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper. Brush on another thinned coat of the sealer. Try to fill the weave of the cloth as much as possi- ble. Sand with 220-grit sandpaper. Brush on two more coats of the thinned sealer. Sand with 150-grit sandpaper to keep the surface flat and smooth.


was functional on the full scale. The Brison 3.2, Zinger 20–11 and Tru-Turn spinner are a powerful combination (above right).


Spray on three coats of Pacific Coast Lac-


quer’s PCL 913 lacquer based primer thinned 125%. Sand the first coat with 100- grit sandpaper, the second coat with 150- grit sandpaper and the last coat with 400- grit sandpaper. A Devilbiss touch-up gun with a medium tip was used. Apply a coat of Kilz oil based primer that


is thinned to two parts Kilz to one part naphtha. A Devilbiss touch-up gun with a heavy duty tip was used for all the paints. The prototype model was painted with Benjamin Moore’s oil based paints. It took two coats of paint, each thinned to a mixture of three parts paint and one part naphtha. The model was painted in a two-color scheme, not necessarily representing any particular plane. The white band on the fuselage and cross were painted with Rus- toleum. The national insignia on the wing is a combination of black MonoKote and brushed-on paint. The camouflage is applied with a Paasche airbrush. The overspray was compounded off. The decals are available from Major Decals. Install your radio, engine, ignition sys-


tem, tank, pushrods and landing gear. The Bisson muffler, 8932, requires an “A” di- mension of 2½ inches. Balance the model at the center of gravity. This position yielded a model that was stable but maneuverable in


flight and that was easy to land. It took a few ounces of lead at the firewall to achieve this. Also, balance the model around the lon- gitudinal axis. Support the model by the crankshaft and the tail and add weight to the lighter wing tip until the wing remains horizontal. This is often overlooked result- ing in a model that is difficult or even im- possible to trim. With all the building done there is noth-


ing left but the flying. It will certainly be a welcome addition to the field when you show up with the Macchi. With the usual armada of P-51s around, the Macchi certainly at- tracts all the modelers. “What is it?” is the usual comment due to the not so well known national insignia. The Brison 3.2 is well suited for this model and a Zinger 20–10 or 11 pulls it around with authority. The mod- el takes off with no unusual characteristics, just some right rudder to keep it tracking straight, and slight pressure on up elevator. It lands just as well. Keep the landing speed up on approach. Bleed off the power with the plane in a positive attitude. The flying is similar to any sport type pattern ship. If you are a couple of sport planes past a trainer this model is well suited to being your first attempt at sport scale flying with- out the monotonous repetition available from the ARFs.


The prototype model in all its glory (above left). The camouflage pattern was applied with a Paasche airbrush. The process takes time but is well


FLYING MODELS


worth it. The author posing with the model prior to its successful maiden (above right). The Macchi needed only a few clicks of trim to fly perfectly.


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