DINING


Serving up warm memories


Editor’s note: This is one of a series of articles featuring Colorado’s AAA four-diamond restaurants.


Rioja 1431 Larimer St., Denver, 303-820-2282, www.riojadenver.com


Restaurant Kelly Liken 12 Vail Rd., Ste. 100, Vail, 970-479-0175, www.kellyliken.com


If you watch cable TV cooking shows, you might recognize Pittsburgh-born Kelly Liken. She competed on Iron Chef America and was a finalist on Top Chef D.C. But her many accomplishments haven’t distracted her from her primary goal: serving up a memorable meal, and experience. Liken favors seasonal American cuisine and locally grown products, and chang-


Chef Jennifer Jasinski


When the chef owns the restaurant, she controls both the kitchen and the cuisine. Jennifer Jasinski of Rioja uses that power carefully. “My personal (culinary) philoso-


phy is, keep it straightforward and clean,” she says. “I like to use sea- sonal ingredients and highlight them—but nothing too overdone. My cuisine is Mediterranean-


inspired, with hand-made pastas and fresh ingredients.” Her signature dish is artichoke


tortelloni: artichoke broth with queso de mano cheese. Most pop- ular is the Lamb Two Ways. But that could change, because she’s always coming up with new com- binations and innovative dishes. What can she say? “I love to cook!” Rioja won raves from Denver’s


Westword magazine for its bread (served with meals) and for its excellent cookbook, The Perfect Bite, which can be ordered online.


Linda DuVal is a freelance writer in Colorado Springs.


es the menu often to reflect that concept. A favorite of repeat guests is potato- crusted trout filets, served with caramelized Brussels sprouts, almonds and bran- died buerre blanc. The restaurant serves 60 wines by the glass. Attention to detail by the staff makes diners feel special, she feels. “I want every guest to be blown away by their experience here,” she adds.


Kelly’s Signature Potato-Crusted Trout Filets with Caramelized Brussels Sprouts, Plump Golden Raisins, and Toasted Pecans Ingredients


8 rainbow trout filets, skinned 10 fingerling potatoes, sliced paper thin into disks 1 cup all purpose flour 5 eggs, beaten 1/2 lb brussels sprouts, cored and leaves separated 1/4 cup toasted pecan pieces 1/4 cup golden raisins, soaked in Chardonnay for 1 hour Butter and olive oil Salt and pepper to taste


Directions


1. Dust the skin side of filets in flour and then dredge through egg wash. Lay filets, egg side up, on a sheet pan. Place potato slices on filets to resemble scales on a fish.


2. Cook the Brussels sprout leaves, slowly in a sauté pan in a little butter or olive oil until they are golden brown and wilted and season with salt and pepper. Add the pecans and plump raisins to the hot pan and toss together. Keep warm while you sauté the fish.


3. Cover the bottom of a large sauté pan with olive oil. Heat to just smoking, season fish with salt and pepper. Place fish carefully, potato side down, in the pan and cook until potatoes are golden brown and crispy, about 3 minutes. Flip over and remove pan from heat while you place Brussels sprouts on the plates.


4. Top the vegetables with the cooked filets and dress the plate with the buerre blanc sauce (see next recipe).


Brandied Beurre Blanc Sauce


Ingredients 1 cup French brandy 2 shallots, chopped 1 sprig fresh thyme 10 black pepper corns 1 bay leaf 1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes


1 lemon, juiced Salt and pepper to taste


Directions


1. Put everything, except butter and lemon juice, in a sauce pan and bring to a simmer, reduce until syrupy.


2. Whisk in the butter, 1 piece at a time, off the heat, until all the butter is melted and incorporated.


3. Stir in lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper.


4. Keep in a warm place, off direct heat.


5. The sauce will hold in a warm place for about an hour.


Recipe courtesy of chef Kelly Liken EnCompass September/October 2011 47


© Jennifer Olson


Courtesy of Restaurant Kelly Liken.


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