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Kitchen expert Eating In Burgers can be made using caul fat


This month I’ve been chatting to Suzanne Ballantine from West Molesey, who makes the most amazing array of chutneys and jams


Burger binder I recently discovered that my youngest daughter has a mild allergy to eggs. We are still discovering how to deal with this and I’m quite enjoying the learning process. I always make my own burgers at home, and in the past have used an egg to bind the mixture. I can’t do this anymore, and now my burgers break up on cooking. What can I use instead? Fiona, Farnham


A


A really cheff y tip here is to use something called caul fat. You won’t


fi nd this in the supermarket, but your local butcher will be able to get it for you, if they don’t already have it. It’s a product that is used lots in restaurants as a way of maintaining shape, moisture and fl avour in meat when cooking it. It looks like a little bundle of white string, but when you open it out, it is actually a bit like a webbing of fat that is so thin you can see through it. Treat it like wrapping paper. Using a pair


of scissors, cut a piece big enough to wrap the raw burger in, with a bit of an overlap, and then as you cook the burgers, they will hold their shape. The great thing about caul fat is that it’s so thin, it pretty much dissolves as you cook the meat, so when you come to eat your burger, you won’t even know it is there!


If you’d like to ask Andrew a foodie question, drop him an email to Surreyeditor@ grubmagazine.co.uk with ‘Andrew’ in the subject box. Andrew regrets he cannot enter into correspondence.


GRUBMAGAZINE.CO.UK JULY 2011 39


Suzanne initially started preserving as a hobby, but now she has a great little operation up and running, selling her delights to friends and family and making beautifully packaged ‘Suzanne’s Larder’ gifts. She has an allotment and uses the wonderful selection of seasonal fruits and vegetables she grows there to make such mouthwatering products as sweet piccalilli, chunky pear and walnut chutney, and spiced apple and cider jelly. ‘There really is no product that you can buy in the shops


that tastes quite as good as a homemade one,’ she says. ‘Not just because of the additives in commercial produce but also because of the fact that you can taste the love in homemade jams and chutneys.’


What should we be eating in July?


Where to begin? July is probably my favourite month for English produce. By now, the switch from old to new season English lamb is complete and the meat is


generally as good as it gets. So lamb chops on the BBQ are a must. On the fi sh front, this time of year is generally the best for lobsters and prawns and


is also excellent for squid…and by some wonderful coincidence, these seafoods all taste fantastic when BBQ’d! English soft fruits are in full swing, with strawberries and raspberries approaching their best, along with redcurrants, cherries and blueberries. Broad beans, fresh peas, green beans and fresh garlic are all bursting with fl avour and English cucumbers, lettuces and salad leaves, radishes and watercress are perfect for eating now.


Prawns come into season just in time for BBQs


WORDS: Andrew Maxwelll PHOTOGRAPHS: Shutterstock


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