Next we need to apply drop shadows on the over lapping flames and again I will use Press and Seal as masking. Once in place I use my X axcto knife to cut along the area where I will be add- ing the drop shadow. I’m basically done now the last step will be to apply two more clear coats let it dry then sand it with 500 grit sandpaper then a final gloss coat is applied. After a day in the warm Los Angels sun I color sand it with 1000 grit and then 1500
grit sandpapers. To bring it to a nice shine all the sheet metal is buffed with a wool pad, a cutting pad and finally a polishing pad. Lastly I wipe it down with Maguire’s hand glaze and this job is ready for the show room floor. To see more of Mick Cassidy’s work please visit his web site
www.badasspaint.com
Hey everybody! Welcome to Ask Jammer. I’m a T-shirt and Auto tag artist, (well just about anything but auto’s and motorcycles) and have been airbrushing for a few years. After reading the first few issues of this great new magazine, I thought I might be able to add something here for the new and us not so new, T-shirt and tag artists.
In this column I will try to answer all of your T-shirt and Auto tag related questions. I don’t know, and probably will never know, all the different techniques used in T-shirt and tag airbrushing, but I will do my best to answer any question you would like to see in this magazine. If I don’t know the answer to your question, I will do my best to find the answer for you. Since this is a Bi-monthly magazine, not all of your questions can be answered right away. So, if you have a specific question and you need an answer right away, ask anyway and I will try to e-mail you an answer as soon as possible. If I receive a lot of questions on one specific topic, I may dedicate the whole column that issue to that specific topic. Include your name and location and I will include that information with your question here in my column if you like. So let’s get to it. I only have one question this issue since the column is new. It was actually asked of me by a visitor to my web site, I know it’s a common question so we’ll address it here in my column this issue.
“I’m new to airbrushing and was wondering what you sug- gest I use as a “T” shirt backing board. What size board works best and what material I should use to make the board.”
Many things can be used for shirt boards. Most T-shirt artists, including myself, make their shirt boards out of masonite or hard board 1/8 inch. or 1/4 inch. thick. You can purchase a 4ft.x 8ft. sheet at any home supply store for around $5 to $10 bucks. If you own a saw you can cut it yourself, if not than most home supply stores will cut it for you for; they will charge you a small fee gener- ally.
I make mine 24 inches tall, that way you can just cut a full sheet in half, you get more boards out of one sheet this way. Then lay your shirts out and measure them from side to side and add an inch, that will be your shirt board width. Not all shirt brands are the same width, that’s why I suggest you measure the shirt brand that you use. Next you want to round the corners at the top of your board so when you slide your shirt over it you don’t rip the shirt. Once your board is cut you can use clothes pins to hold the shirt sleeves back and if the shirt is long, fold it under and back and hold it up with clothes pins. Some shirts are close in width so you can use the same board for different size shirts. Well that will do it for this issue. If you have any questions, and would like to see them here in the magazine, you can e-mail them to
askjammer@evenlink.com and I’ll try and answer them as soon as possible. Keep sprayin!
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